Beauty, At the Scene of a Slaughter
These separator tanks, found at the abandoned whaling station at Grytviken on South Georgia Island, were once used in the whale oil purification process.
My recent visit to the Southern Ocean included a landing at Grytviken on South Georgia Island, the site of a whaling station that was in operation from 1904 until 1962. During that time more than 50,000 whales were butchered at Grytviken where their body parts were processed to extract oil and to produce fertilizer and fodder. As a devoted animal lover, and given Grytviken’s brutal history, I cannot say that I was looking forward to this landing. Nevertheless, I went ashore with my fellow passengers, raised a glass in honor of explorer Ernest Shackleton at his gravesite, and looked around the fine museum documenting Grytviken’s past. So ambivalent was I about the landing, I did the unthinkable: I went ashore without my camera.
Grytviken, an abandoned whaling station on South Georgia Island, sits on the shore of King Edward Cove below rugged cliffs.
After exiting the museum, my eyes were drawn to the boilers set amongst the rusting ruins of the whaling station’s buildings and machinery. The sinuous curves and the repeating patterns were crying out to be photographed and I could not resist. If I were able to convince one of the zodiac drivers to ferry me back to the ship to grab my camera, I’d have about an hour to spend photographing the decaying machinery before our time for the landing would run out.
A close-up look at a section of a boiler assembly at the Grytviken whaling station on South Georgia Island reveals serpentine countours in ochre hues.
About fifteen minutes later, camera in hand, I thanked Elise for the shuttle service, stepped off the zodiac, and began photographing furiously. It seemed that wherever I placed my gaze, I saw another image just dying to be created. I have not worked much with subjects in this genre, but in that hour I was completely lost in the creative possibilities. Wonderful colors, strong repeating visual elements, and oxidized old-fashioned machinery all vied for my attention. Caught up in the moment I wished for more time, but in hindsight, it might not have been such a memorable experience if I’d been able to linger.
Grytviken may have a past that is hard to stomach, but what remains of that horrible whaling operation is a present-day treat for photographers.
Pressure cookers and a bucket-conveyer, once used to boil whale blubber, now stand rusting in the harsh weather of Grytviken, South Georgia Island.
At Grytviken, whale oil storage tanks create a colorful palette as paint gives way to rust.
Do you have a favorite? I’d love to hear your feedback.
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